I am home from the Bahamas for the holidays. I flew to BWI on Thursday, and it was 60 degrees when I landed at 9pm. That was a pleasant surprise, as I only had a light jacket, and no socks! So far, the weather has been really balmy for this part of the country.
The last three weeks I spent in the Bahamas were truly wonderful, and I’m looking forward to getting back there. For most of the time I anchored in Big Major Spot, also known as the Pig Beach. I was ahead of the cruisers, most of whom are just getting to that area now. So it was relatively empty, and those boats that were there quickly got to know each other.
The weather was beautiful, although the wind seldom stopped. We were about a half mile, by dinghy, from the nearest groceries, and the nearest bar. But only about one of ten of those days were calm enough to even consider the trip. And what a treat when we finally did get to “town”.
On a few occasions, the cruisers gathered on the beach for cocktails and whatever goodies emerged from the still fairly well-stocked pantries. ( I can’t imagine what April will be like! )
One of the “chores” of gathering like this is to burn the trash. Trash is a real problem in the islands, and there are very few places to process it. The custom is to burn whatever is burnable on the beach below the high water mark, and let the sea handle the ashes. So a bonfire becomes part of the ambience. I haven’t yet seen s’mores, but it’s probably just a matter of time.
The beach we were using is about a quarter mile from the pig beach, but on the same island, and, sure enough, a couple of the smaller ones found us. Smaller is still intimidating, and his arrival tends to break up the party if he can’t be coerced into leaving.
One day we chose to venture to Pipe Creek, a well-protected anchorage a bit farther north. We arrived in this narrow creek with the current just rushing through, and dropped the anchor. Next thing we knew we were perpendicular to the wind and the anchor was behind the boat! Not liking that arrangement at all, we poked our way to another spot that had a bit more swing room. And nothing we did would make that anchor hold at all. After an hour of flexing Dave’s big toe, and putting the chain up and down with the windlass, we agreed to try the Delta. It has a sharper hook than the CQR and we did get that to hold. Unfortunately, the last 50 feet of chain have to be retrieved by hand as it is not rigged on the windlass, so the next morning Dave got his exercise for the year while I shouted encouragement. With that we were out of that place, most likely never to return.
Weather is the bible we live by at anchor in the Bahamas, and the forecast for the last week we would be there was for calmer winds, with no cold fronts. So we were planning to leave Wednesday for Compass Cay Marina, where the boat is docked for the time I’m gone. However, by Monday morning, the forecast had changed and winds were supposed to increase each day through Thursday. And it was already blowing. Dave suggested leaving but I wanted one last trip to town, so we delayed departure until Tuesday.
We had a great day on Monday, with lunch at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, and visits to the two grocery stores. By Tuesday morning, however, we were sorry. It was really blowing as we left.
When we left the wind was already at 20 knots, and it was quite a bit higher as we got out on the banks. Through all this, however, the sun is shining and the temperature is in the 70s, so it’s not uncomfortable. As we headed north, we were taking waves on the windshield, so we were glad we left as early as we did.
The channel into Compass Cay is long and winding and the wind had whitecaps on the water so it was difficult to see any marks. Fortunately, I had been in there before and had a track on my GPS, or I wouldn’t have attempted it. We were welcomed by Tucker, the owner, and his brother, and neatly tucked in. I feel good knowing the boat is in good hands. Lunch on Tucker’s famous burgers and a bit of boat cleanup, cocktails with cruisers on Exodus, a 65 Fleming, and we were ready for the last night onboard.
Dave is now safely back in Panama and I am at John’s. I have spent the last week catching up with friends and the Christmas spirit, to say nothing of last minute shopping.
So to all I say Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year. I hope your year has been great and that 2012 will be even better.
I am leaving on Dec 30 to spend New Years in Florida with Nancy and Arnon on Vision Quest, and then flying back to Walkabout on Jan 2.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
