Merry Christmas to All

I am home from the Bahamas for the holidays.  I flew to BWI on Thursday, and it was 60 degrees when I landed at 9pm.  That was a pleasant surprise, as I only had a light jacket, and no socks!  So far, the weather has been really balmy for this part of the country.

The last three weeks I spent in the Bahamas were truly wonderful, and I’m looking forward to getting back there.  For most of the time I anchored in Big Major Spot, also known as the Pig Beach.  I was ahead of the cruisers, most of whom are just getting to that area now.  So it was relatively empty, and those boats that were there quickly got to know each other. 

The weather was beautiful, although the wind seldom stopped.  We were about a half mile, by dinghy, from the nearest groceries, and the nearest bar.  But only about one of ten of those days were calm enough to even consider the trip.  And what a treat when we finally did get to “town”.

On a few occasions, the cruisers gathered on the beach for cocktails and whatever goodies emerged from the still fairly well-stocked pantries. ( I can’t imagine what April will be like!  )

One of the “chores” of gathering like this is to burn the trash.  Trash is a real problem in the islands, and there are very few places to process it.  The custom is to burn whatever is burnable on the beach below the high water mark, and let the sea handle the ashes.   So a bonfire becomes part of the ambience.  I haven’t yet seen s’mores, but it’s probably just a matter of time.

The beach we were using is about a quarter mile from the pig beach, but on the same island, and, sure enough, a couple of the smaller ones found us.  Smaller is still intimidating, and his arrival tends to break up the party if he can’t be coerced into leaving.

One day we chose to venture to Pipe Creek, a well-protected anchorage a bit farther north.  We arrived in this narrow creek with the current just rushing through, and dropped the anchor.  Next thing we knew we were perpendicular to the wind and the anchor was behind the boat! Not liking that arrangement at all, we poked our way to another spot that had a bit more swing room.  And nothing we did would make that anchor hold at all.  After an hour of flexing Dave’s big toe, and putting the chain up and down with the windlass, we agreed to try the Delta.  It has a sharper hook than the CQR and we did get that to hold.  Unfortunately, the last 50 feet of chain have to be retrieved by hand as it is not rigged on the windlass, so the next morning Dave got his exercise for the year while I shouted encouragement.  With that we were out of that place, most likely never to return. 

Weather is the bible we live by at anchor in the Bahamas, and the forecast for the last week we would be there was for calmer winds, with no cold fronts.  So we were planning to leave Wednesday for Compass Cay Marina, where the boat is docked for the time I’m gone.  However, by Monday morning, the forecast had changed and winds were supposed to increase each day through Thursday.  And it was already blowing.  Dave suggested leaving but I wanted one last trip to town, so we delayed departure until Tuesday. 

We had a great day on Monday, with lunch at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, and visits to the two grocery stores.  By Tuesday morning, however, we were sorry.  It was really blowing as we left.

When we left the wind was already at 20 knots, and it was quite a bit higher as we got out on the banks.  Through all this, however, the sun is shining and the temperature is in the 70s, so it’s not uncomfortable.  As we headed north, we were taking waves on the windshield, so we were glad we left as early as we did. 

The channel into Compass Cay is long and winding and the wind had whitecaps on the water so it was difficult to see any marks.  Fortunately, I had been in there before and had a track on my GPS, or I wouldn’t have attempted it.  We were welcomed by Tucker, the owner, and his brother, and neatly tucked in.  I feel good knowing the boat is in good hands.  Lunch on Tucker’s famous burgers and a bit of boat cleanup, cocktails with cruisers on Exodus, a 65 Fleming, and we were ready for the last night onboard.

Dave is now safely back in Panama and I am at John’s.  I have spent the last week catching up with friends and the Christmas spirit, to say nothing of last minute shopping. 

So to all I say Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and Happy New Year.  I hope your year has been great and that 2012 will be even better. 

I am leaving on Dec 30 to spend New Years in Florida with Nancy and Arnon on Vision Quest, and then flying back to Walkabout on Jan 2.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

Warm and sunny in the Bahamas

Week One in Paradise

We have now been in the Bahamas for a week.    And already some fun times, and lots of adventure.

We left Nassau on Monday, with the wind still blowing over 20.  It had been supposed to subside, but then the forecast changed, and it was going to blow until Wednesday.  I just couldn’t wait, so off we went.  We did have an adventure at the fuel dock, culminating with having to cut a dock line to free the boat before it took the dock down, but all ended well, thanks to quick thinking on everyone’s part.  So we motored thru the coral heads, and put up the sails. 

We had two great days of sailing, once my heart adapted to the 10 foot water depths, ending in the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  This is a most beautiful preserve, in crystal water.  The sharks and rays swim under the boat, the snorkeling is great, although this time we opted for looking from the dinghy, and the trip to the top of the hill had an awesome view of the ocean (well, Exuma Sound ) on one side and Walkabout nestled in the lagoon on the other.

Since our goal was getting Pam to see the pigs, we left Thanksgiving morning for the 20 mile trip south to Staniel Cay.  There was no wind (feast or famine) and we motored out into the sound and then thru one of the cuts back to the banks. 

By 11 am we were anchored and watching those pigs swim out to the dinghies that approached.  Pam had her pumpkin pie in the oven: as soon as it was finished we headed to shore.  Pam had her carrots ready.  Like a herd of cattle, I think they smelled the carrots, and soon all 4 500lb pigs were heading our way.  As Pam gave out carrots, one tried to get into the boat.  It had two feet on the pontoon and was trying to scramble in when I went off the other side.  I could just imagine that fiasco.  Pam and I waded in shallow water while she distributed her Thanksgiving gifts.  The pictures of the four pigs begging were a riot.  Then the carrots were gone and she tried to pet one of them.  It turned around and nipped her on the hip.  She will have a big bruise from that one.  And she was indignant that I didn’t get a picture of it.  I was trying too hard not to laugh and to escape at the same time.

We had a great, traditional dinner on board, with turkey, dressing, potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole and champagne for dinner.  And the best pumpkin pie ever for dessert.  Pam truly is a genius at making marvelous meals come out of that tiny galley. 

Friday, Pam and I took the dinghy to Staniel Cay in spite of the strong winds.  It was about a half mile ride, and by the time we got there we had water up to the gunwales.  And that was with her bailing the entire way.  Waves were coming over the bow faster than we could get the water out of the boat.  And of course we were so drenched we left puddles on the bar floor as we drowned our insides to match.  Okay, another experience we won’t repeat, it’s now a conundrum as to how I get her ashore on Tuesday for her flight.  Stay tuned.

Today is Sunday.  I haven’t had a connection to send this, so here’s the latest update.  We spent last night in Sampson Cay Marina.  I am trying to figure out where to leave the boat while I come home.  I wasn’t impressed, but the VaTech game was on tv so Pam contributed to the bar’s profit.  We left with the wind still howling for Compass Cay Marina this morning.  There is a long, winding channel to get in here, with a few balls as markers, when you can see them, and depths that read 1 to 2 meters at low tide.  Nonetheless, Tucker was on the radio assuring me I could make it as I wound through the coral and other things lurking beneath the surface.  And the journey was well worth it.  The marina holds about 15 boats and has a small shack with a refrigerator (beer) for an office.  Outside the door are steps down to the water. When we got here the dock at the bottom of the steps was under water by about a foot.  People were standing on the dock and SHARKS were putting their heads on the dock to be petted and fed!!!  Apparently these are all pets, although they are not caged.  They just don’t leave.  There are about 10 sharks from 2 to 10 feet, mostly nurse sharks I think.  And lots of bonefish and snapper in the mix. The sharks don’t eat the fish, so they say.

Pam put on a mask and snorkel and went to play.  I took pictures.

So all is good here.  Weather is beautiful in spite of the wind, warm enough to swim but not warm enough to need to.  Pam heads home Tuesday, so we’ll head back to Staniel Cay tomorrow. 

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.  I look forward to catching up with you when I come home.

Walkabout is Wandering Again

Walkabout has reached the Bahamas

Hello all.  It has been a while since Walkabout has been roaming, so she spent the last two weeks getting from Annapolis to Nassau in the Bahamas.  It has been a great trip, and is still just beginning.

Since last fall, Walkabout has had a lot of major surgery getting ready for this trip.  She has a beautiful new hardtop, new canvas, a wind generator, a new windlass and new electronics.  And that’s only the major items.  The boatyard has spent countless hours making sure she was up to the journey.  All great guys!!

Dave Goen flew up from Panama, where he has his boat, to do the trip with me.  And my sister Pam joined us on the trip.  Pam is a great cook, and an even better food preparer.  She arrived with two coolers full of frozen food, to make sure we didn’t starve, even if we took a wrong turn and ended up in Europe.

We left Annapolis in company with Comocean and spent two great nights on the hook in the bay.  The third day we fueled up in Cape Charles and crossed over the Bay Bridge tunnel, sailing through the night, around Hatteras, to Beaufort NC.  Had we gone the inland route, it would have taken us four more days to do the 30 hour trip.  It was a great shakedown for our ocean passage.  The seas were so calm we motored through the night, enjoying a great lamb chop dinner in the cockpit.  At dawn, we rounded Cape Hatteras and the winds picked up, the seas built and we had a great sail to the point outside Beaufort, Cape Lookout.  By then it was very rough, and we were glad to round the point and head to shore.

Pam did well, admitting a bit of discomfort at the seas off the cape.  It was very rough with a few 12 foot waves.  So no one was comfortable for a couple of hours.

We spent two great days in Beaufort with Comocean and Kika, as well as some cruising friends passing through.

And on Friday, November 11, we headed off shore at noon.  There is a sailors’ superstition that a voyage should never begin on a Friday. We rationalized it by saying it was a continuation of our journey.  And just to make sure the gods were appeased we followed Susan Roof’s advice to make a counter clockwise circle before heading out.

We sailed until dusk, grilling pork chops on the back deck before the sun went down.  By then, we had lost our wind and we motored until Saturday night.  Now I was worried we wouldn’t have enough fuel to get to the Bahamas.  Sunday the wind came up in the morning and we sailed the rest of the journey, pulling in to Nassau on Wednesday around noon.  So we were five days at sea, in a glorious weather window, with great sailing and a great crew.

Contrary to popular opinion, it is not boring at sea.  First of all, it takes three times as long to do anything as it takes on land.  At some times, on a 30 degree heel, it took 15 minutes to get from the galley to the cockpit.  It takes forever to prepare a meal.  At least that’s my uneducated opinion, as I watched Pam struggle in the galley with sliding bowls, glasses flying, and still coming up with beautiful creations. 

The sea life when it shows up is fun.  Dolphins played in our bow wake, flying fish entertained, and ended up on the deck, a sea turtle ate Pam’s sandwich that she threw overboard, and then there is the fishing.

A good bit of discussion went into choosing the lure each day.  In the end, neither the green machine nor the pink squid attracted anything other than sea grass.  But it was fun watching the process.

And then of course there are the boat gremlins, that assure anything but a smooth passage.    The batten (12 ft long) came out of the mainsail on the first day and had to be stowed.  We ended up taping it to the hand rail in the galley.  It still hasn’t been put back.  We had water in the back cabin when we were on a port tack, which was most of the way.  I had to bail to get to the head.  We haven’t found that leak yet.  The hardtop is learning how to play nice with the sheets and preventers, but that is taking a lot of trial and error.  And we discovered after three days that the engine didn’t want to start.  We had lots of time to diagnose it, with SSB emails going back and forth to John and the boatyard crew. But in the end, two miles outside Nassau harbor we got it started and got in safely.  That has since been fixed. 

The weather was beautiful the entire trip, with each day getting warmer.  We started with a heater in the cockpit and ended in tshirts and shorts.

So we are now in Nassau, with one more item to get fixed before leaving.  The lights at the top of the mast don’t work.  The marina arranged for an electrician to come this morning, but it’s now 3:30 and we are still waiting.  Island time I guess.

Our plans are to leave here as soon as possible and head down the banks, stopping at great islands along the way, until we come to the swimming pigs.  Pam’s goal on this trip is to see the swimming pigs, and the least I can do is make sure she gets to feed them before going home.  And she has to be home before Dec 1.  Dave is leaving Dec 12, and I am flying home for Christmas on Dec 15.  Hope to see a lot of you then.

As always, if these notes seem to fill your inbox, please let me know and I’ll remove you from the list.  Otherwise, I’ll keep you posted on our journey south as email allows.

Also, even in paradise, it’s nice to hear from the folks at home.  So please as time allows, let me know what’s happening in your world.

Fair winds to all